The plates were identical. Every day, Betty Lindsey would prepare the food, set the plates on the counter, and customers would pick one up knowing it would be good. There were no menus to read through, no decisions to agonize over. You got what Betty made, and what Betty made was her family’s food: southern-style meats, cooked vegetables, the kind of meal that was supposed to sustain a person through a long afternoon shift at a factory.

That was the beginning of Wade’s Restaurant. March 6, 1947. A small grocery store on South Pine Street in Spartanburg that Wade and Betty Lindsey had just purchased from a woman named Mrs. May. The store had a lunch counter already in it, serving hot dogs, sandwiches, and soup to workers from the nearby Draper Corporation and Duke Power facilities. What changed it from a lunch counter into something more was simple enough: the workers kept asking Betty to cook them real food.

She said yes. She started serving her family’s recipes. Word spread the way it does in a place where people eat together every day. By the time the business had found its rhythm, the plates on the counter were a small daily certainty for the workers who came through — a version of home cooking available to people who were far enough from home that it mattered.

Wade’s contribution to the business was different in kind but equal in importance. In the early 1950s, he began preparing pork barbecue over hickory wood, a process that required hours and attention and the kind of patience that transforms a simple ingredient into something people travel for. The grocery evolved accordingly. The cinder-block building that replaced the original structure became a classic drive-in, with curb hops bringing food out to cars parked in the lot. It was a different Spartanburg then — one shaped by the rhythms of the textile industry and the car culture of the postwar decade — and Wade’s fit it.

Betty Lindsey died in 1970. The loss might have ended the business. Instead, it entered its next chapter. In 1977, Wade and Betty’s children — their son, known to everyone as Hamp, and their daughter Carole — took over operations and made a deliberate decision to reshape the restaurant’s identity. The drive-in came down. The beer went away. The family refocused Wade’s as a place where anyone could bring their family for a meal without having to think twice about the environment they were walking into.

The move was not simply strategic. It reflected something about what Hamp and Carole understood the restaurant to be, and what they believed their parents had intended it to be: a place where people felt at home and were fed well. The family recipes stayed. The barbecue stayed. The consistency that Betty had established with those identical plates — the quality you could count on without having to inspect it first — that stayed most of all.

Wade’s has operated at 1000 North Pine Street in Spartanburg for decades now, long after the original South Pine Street location became history. The restaurant runs as a cafeteria-style service: you take a tray, move along the line, pick your meat and your sides, and find a table. Field peas, fried okra, squash casserole, banana pudding. The menu is built around what grows in this part of the country and what has always been cooked here. There are no concessions to current trends, no seasonal innovations announced on a chalkboard. What’s on the line is what has always been on the line.

The current owners — Hamp Lindsey, his son Wade Lindsey III, and his daughter Anna Lindsey Liles — represent the third generation of family ownership. They talk about the restaurant in terms of obligation as much as pride. There is something that was started here that is larger than any individual, and their role is to maintain it faithfully. The food should be what it has always been. The service should reflect what Wade and Betty established. The workers and families and regulars who walk through the door should feel what people have felt walking through that door for 77 years.

In February 2024, the James Beard Foundation named Wade’s Restaurant its America’s Classics Award winner for the Southeast — one of the most significant recognitions in American food. The award is given to restaurants that have defined their communities through food that reflects regional character over a sustained period. Wade’s is the only James Beard Award winner in the Upstate of South Carolina, and only the third restaurant in the entire state to receive this particular distinction.

The announcement prompted reflection from the family and from longtime regulars in ways that the restaurant’s daily operation generally doesn’t. Wade’s doesn’t need awards to fill its dining room. It fills its dining room because people come back, and because the people who come back bring their children, and because those children eventually bring their own. That cycle has been running since 1947.

What Betty Lindsey started with a lunch counter and her family’s recipes is still, fundamentally, the same thing it was on South Pine Street in the Spartanburg of the late 1940s: a place that takes the act of feeding people seriously. The plates are no longer identical — the line gives you choices now — but the standard behind each one still is.

The third generation is not yet sure what comes next for Wade’s beyond the work of maintaining what exists. For a restaurant that has lasted nearly eight decades by staying exactly what it set out to be, that may be the most honest answer there is.